Part 5 — Forts, Deserts and Lakes
This is a part of a series of blog posts about our bike trip to Kashmir from Kerala. The travelogue is split into several blogs. You can find the intro and the link to all blogs here
Day 10(24/04/2017)
Jaisalmer
Distance: 36km
ODO: 3148km
The first destination of the day was Jaisalmer fort. It was different from any kind of fort that we had ever seen. The whole fort is built on top of a big rock.
The fort consisted of a palace for the King and the Queen, which is open for the tourists to visit. The interesting fact is that the rest of the fort was allocated to families of different merchants and brahmins. They continue to own and live in the same place. So the fort is a living fort. In fact, it is the only living fort in the world. There are houses, working businesses and restaurants all inside the fort.
The Fort is said to have been ruled by the rulers of the Yadava clan, of which Lord Sri Krishna was once a part of. The current MahaRawal Brijraj Singh lives in Delhi with his family. While the main fort is given out for the tourists, the King and the family has a Palace outside the fort to live in when they visit Jaisalmer.
The initial plan was to visit the popular sites in and around Jaisalmer and sleep at the same hotel and leave the next day. But we later thought it would be nice if we could camp in the desert. With the help of our guide who took us around Jaisalmer fort, we found an agency which arranged desert camping and safari packages. They gave us a discounted price when we said we have our tent and that we only need the desert camel safari, and food. When we had that figured out, we decided to take some rest before heading out to the desert. So we went back to the room and rested for some time.
We had booked the safari at Sam sand dunes. It is one of the most popular sand dunes of the Thar Desert. The road was pretty good till the place, but in some places, the road was covered with sand. It is really hard to control the bike in such stretches. You need to be careful. However, we helped each other and made it across.
We checked in to the desert camp and went for the Camel safari. It was a nice experience. The vast stretch of sand dunes is a spectacular sight!
We returned to the camp after sunset. There was a Rajasthani dance performance arranged for us in the night, and we had dinner after that. They made special vegetarian food for us.
We thought it would be a good experience to sleep under the open sky. When we told them that we are not pitching our tent and that we were planning to sleep in the open, they offered one of their tents to us for free. But we rejected it saying that we wanted to sleep under the open sky. Then they arranged two beds outside for us. They were so nice to us. Even when we were not paying them that much money, they still served us pleasantly!
Day 11(25/04/2017)
Jaisalmer — Junjala
Distance: 423km
ODO: 3571km
We woke up early to see the sunrise, after the morning chores and breakfast, left at around 9.30. Some stretches of the road were covered in sand. It was really hard to manoeuvre through! Sree’s bike skidded out of balance once. Since we were already going pretty slow, he was fine. He even posed for a photo with it.
We passed through Jaisalmer town. The road we rode through was a semi-desert with small roads; through various villages in the outskirts. We saw some Camels, Deers and Peacocks roaming around. At one point, Sree was some way behind me. So I stopped at a small tea shop to wait for him. There were a few woven beds laid outside (Most Dhabas have beds like this where people sat to eat/drink. When it’s not that crowded, we usually take a nap in one of them after lunch.) A few people were sitting on these beds. Most of them looked like farmers, but one of them, an older one among them, probably in his 60s, looked like an educated man. All others were sitting around him. I got a cup of tea and sat next to them on the bed. I noticed that everyone was watching me. Once I sat down, one of them asked me where I am from. Most of them do not speak even Hindi. They were speaking in their local tongue. But I guessed the question and answered Kerala!. I saw the puzzled look on their faces. They haven’t even heard of such a place. Then the old man started explaining to them about Kerala. The political situation, history etc. He even told them about things that even I didn’t know off. He also told me about Rajasthan. We talked for some time until Sree reached.
After around 150kms, Sree’s tyre got punctured again. We used the foot pump we had carried to fill it up temporarily and ride it till the next puncture shop. Usually, on roads that connect major towns, puncture shops are in plenty. We found one soon enough, but they couldn’t fix it as they didn’t know how to remove the tyre. Our attempts at trying to persuade them showing some YouTube videos went in vain as they kept refusing. The nearest bike workshop was at Phalodi, which was another 40kms from there. We didn’t have any other option but to take the bike on a pickup truck. By the time some locals had gathered around with help and suggestions. One of them called a pickup truck. With the help of them, loaded the bike onto the truck and paid (after failed bargaining attempt) 1000rs to get the bike to Phalodi. Gave Sree’s bike for repair and we also asked them to top-up the oil in both bikes. Meanwhile, we went to have lunch. While we were waiting for our Roti and Aloo dum Punjabi, I got a message from a cousin. It was a news article. It read, The snowfall has not stopped in Ladakh region and with current estimates, the roads will be open only by May 15th. This threw all our plan into turmoil. If we crossed zojila on 15th, there was no way we could get back to Delhi before 21st for Sree’s exam. We need to re-plan the whole thing. When you are riding a bike alone the whole day, one thing you have abundantly is some alone time to think. So we got into our thinking helmets, hopped on the bike and started thinking.
We were planning to reach Pushkar in a day, but due to the puncture situations and delays, we had to stop at Junjala, about 120kms short of Pushkar.
Day 12(26/04/2017)
Junjala — Pushkar
Distance: 126km
ODO: 3697km
We started at about 10 am and headed out to Pushkar, but just 70k down, Sree’s tyres got puncture yet again. 2nd day in a row and 3rd time in the course of the trip. Luckily we found a repair shop nearby and he was able to fix it for us. The repeated punctures and the bad news from the day before were starting to make Sree a bit down. I assured him that we’ll find a way and replan. Without wasting much time we headed to Pushkar. We didn’t stop for lunch.
The map showed about 2km to our destination when it asked us to take a right. The road was too small and we had a second thought, but then obeyed the maps. It was, in fact, the right route. The road till the Pushkar lake was too narrow. Pushkar is a small town in the middle of a dessert, encompassed by the Aravalli ranges on all sides. The town itself is built around the Pushkar Lake. It is famous for the Annual Camel fair that takes place in November. It is also famous for the Brahma Temple. It is one of the very first Brahma temple ever. (We heard that it was the only Brahma temple in the world, due to a curse; but we later found that to be false).
We reached Pushkar by 2 pm. We had heard that there is a ‘Young Monx Hostel’ in Pushkar, It was a place where you could meet people from different ethnicity. It took us quite some time to find the location, but to our dismay, it was closed for maintenance. Later we took a room and settled in.
When we were riding Pushkar in search of a room, people didn’t even seem to notice us. Every other place we went, we used to be head-turners, but here people didn’t seem to care. We’re not sure if it’s because they were used to seeing people like us or if its because they were in their spiritual world. The latter seemed more likely.
After going out for lunch, we came back and rested till 6. We took a bath in the lake and as soon as we were done, it was time for aarti, which was done at several places around the lake. We visited the Brahma temple. The temple is built out of marble. There are a few deities below the ground level. You have to climb down a stairway to reach there.
After we ate dinner, Sree wanted to relax near the lake for some time, but I had some work to complete from office. So we decided that I’ll take my laptop and work from there.
Later we replanned the rest of the trip. Unfortunately, it was decided that Sree won’t be writing his exam. We added a few more places to go before entering J&K. As per our initial plan, we were to head to Jammu from Amritsar, but we decided to head to Himachal instead, spent a few days there and then head to Jammu. By that time hopefully, Zojilla pass should be open. We also booked another train ticket from Delhi back home for 30th of May, so that we get an extra 2 days which might come in handy.
Day 13(27/04/2017)
Pushkar — Jaipur
Distance: 190km
ODO: 3887km
We checked out by 9 the next day. We left Pushkar after having a couple of samosas for breakfast and buying some souvenirs like magnetic stickers etc.
Reached Jaipur by evening and visited Hawa Mahal and Amber Fort.
Hawa Mahal is situated inside the city and was built for the queen to see various processions and activities in the street. Built on top of a hill, The Amber Fort is an architectural beauty. It has some marvellous courtyards and lawns. The geographical location of the fort on top of a hill and beside a lake adds to the beauty. We were asked for our ID cards at Amber Fort to prove that we were Indians.
It was already past sunset and we went to Jal Mahal. The palace is built in the middle of a lake. You cannot go to the palace, but there is a walkway by the lake from where you can see it. The night view of the palace is spectacular. It is beautifully lit and creates a nice ambience. The walkway starts becoming lively by night. People from across the town come there to spent time with their family and loved ones. We ate street-food for dinner.
We were planning to head out of town and find a Petrol pump to set up our tent. We didn’t want to go through the morning traffic of the town. Just as we started, a car slowed beside us and a voice from inside shouted “Keralathinnu aano!” (“Are you guys from Kerala?”). I shouted back “Athee, Ernakulathu nnu” (“Yea!, from Ernakulam”), and the guy replied “Adipoli! Adipoli!” (“Good good!”) and he left. A few 100 meters after that, we stopped to check the navigation and the same guy came running to us. He had stopped across the road and on seeing us came to us. After that, the conversation roughly summarise to,
Him: Hi guys, What are your names.
Us: Sankaran. Sreenath. Yours?
Him: Vishnu. Are you guys riding all the way from Kerala?
Us: Yea.
Him: When did you start?
Us: About two weeks back.
Him: Where are you guys heading?
Us: Kashmir, Ladakh.
Him: Amazing! Where are you guys staying tonight?
Us: We usually stay in our tents. Planning to head out of town, and find a nice Petrol pump to pitch.
Him: If you are not adamant of it, maybe you can come and stay with me.
Us: We would love to, If that’s not a trouble for you.
Him: Not at all. Just one minute.
*He makes some calls.*
Him: OK, I need to go somewhere now, so I cannot accompany you right now, but I’ve informed my friends and I’ll share the location, you can go there straight and they’ll take care you.
We were so happy and went to the location he gave us. We were received graciously by his friends and were shown to a room. They asked if we had dinner and offered to get some food for us, but we had already had dinner. A while later Vishnu came and after a little chit-chat, he let us get recharged. People like these are a constant source of motivation.
